Editor: Mercia Tapping, President, Allergy Buyers Club

PLEASE NOTE that references to prices or specials within this archive reflect prices
and market conditions at the time of newsletter publication.
Prices may have changed since publication.

In This Issue

• AirFree: An important new product for control of mold, bacteria and other microorganisms
• Poor building design leads to fungal growth
• Cleaning mildew from mattresses, rugs and upholstery
• NEW! Problem Solution Guides: Dust mites; Mold
• Customer review of IQAir Purifiers
• Use and Care of Home Humidifiers
• Email rave about Formula 212 spot cleaner from customer
  
• Care and storage of your pillow
  
• Care and Storage of your comforter
  
• Washing instructions for your comforter
  

Shop Talk

• AirFree: An important new product for control of mold, bacteria and other microorganisms
• New Millennium dehumidifiers including low temp
• New Products Round Up
• NEW! All Models Comparison Charts for IQAir and Clarifier air purifiers
  

Buy Allergy Control Products
from our Store!

AirFree:   An important new product for control of mold, bacteria and other microorganisms.

I have always said that with microorganisms like dust mites or mold, you need to "fry 'em or freeze them". Our vapor steam cleaners, such as the Ladybug are wonderful at killing mold or dust mites embedded in materials such as your mattress or upholstery.

Now along comes AirFree, an air sterilizer which uses heat to kill dust mites, viruses and mold.

As with steam cleaning, the "kill factor" occurs at very high temperatures. With AirFree, the temperature at its ceramic core is about 200 degrees to 260F. Simply warming the microorganisms at lower temperatures only fosters their rapid growth. The kill temperature is essential. Unlike many new technologies submitted to us for review, AirFree comes with a veritable sack-load of impressive independent lab reports.

Since AirFree is fanless, it is silent and it also relies on natural air convection in a room to operate. Therefore the spore reduction, as in the case of mold does not happen overnight. But for the patient, spore reduction seems to be consistently achieved to about the 85% level after about 3 to 4 weeks in a 12'x12' room. In case this kill rate does not ring your chimes, it should. I would remind you that one of the misconceptions about HEPA filters is they capture 99.97% of all particles WHICH HIT THE HEPA FILTER. This is not the same as the % reduction of the particle or spore count in the room. The beauty of the AirFree method is since you are KILLING mold spores, viruses and the like you are also discouraging regrowth of new colonies, so you are remediating not merely controlling.

What's more, this impressive result is achieved without the use of ozone, which is used in so many ionizer combination machines. The "heat/fry them" principal is completely natural, no chemicals, no toxic side effects. It is ridiculously easy to maintain. No filters at all, just a gentle wipe down of the outside of the machine. One downside, while the machine is warranted for 12 months and if it breaks down you get a new one, the life expectancy of these machines is about 3 years. Finally, they will break down and you throw them away and buy a new one. Not a bad trade off for the usual annual cost of about $100 for replacing HEPA filters.

This technology is NOT effective for removal of pollen or other non microorganism particulates which are not "alive". Its effectiveness is clear but I have to warn you that most people will need to buy multiple units of this air purifier/sterilizer to cover their required amount of space.

So, this is one of those few products which gets my "rave review". You will love this product if you have sinus problems and wish to control the fungi in your environment (a known cause of sinus problems), if you are fighting mold anywhere in your home or office, want a germ or bacteria free environment, and are allergic to dust mites.

In one of our tests, we put out bread and cheese in our testing room. After 30 days it was stale and rock hard but no visible mold. We are continuing to run some interesting tests with it and will report results to you.

AirFree sterilizers coupled with dehumidifiers now make a formidable team in your fight against mold spores. Multiple unit pricing is available.

http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/af-ap-airfree-air-purifiers.html

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Article: Poor building design leads to fungal growth.

By Philip R. Morey, Ph.D., Director of Consulting Services, Air Quality Sciences, Inc.

Modern buildings are expensive investments. Consequently, owners and investors expect the structure to remain physically sound for a lifetime of 50 to 100 years. Building occupants and tenants also expect their occupied spaces to be both a comfortable and a healthy place to work.

Several litigations in the United States provide examples of poorly designed new buildings that were both poor investments and unhealthy workplaces. Moisture damage and consequential fungal growth on interior surfaces in two USA courthouses necessitated occupant evacuation because of allergic respiratory disease. The restoration in each building (cost about 20 to 40 million USA dollars) exceeded the original capital cost of each building. In a recent 11 million dollar settlement in a California condominium case, moisture incursion and extensive fungal growth occurred on exterior sheathing (paper fiber gypsum board) in the building envelope. Owners of condominium units were compensated because of construction defects and fungal growth in the envelope walls.

Reasons for moisture and fungal growth problems in modern buildings are complex and involve considerations such as the integrity of the building envelope and the susceptibility of construction and finishing materials to biodeterioration.

As we enter the 21st century it should be remembered that many of the materials used in modern construction such as paper fiber gypsum board, porous insulation, vinyl wall covering, pressed wood products, porous ceiling tiles, and textile wall and floor coverings were not used or seldom used prior to the 1930s. Some of these construction and finishing materials are highly susceptible to fungal biodeterioration.

With the advent of air-conditioning in the mid-20th century, temperature gradients on various surfaces in buildings have become non-uniform. Elevated relative humidity (dampness) and even condensation can occur on surfaces that are relatively cool compared to the temperature of the surrounding air. Fungal colonization of interior surfaces occurs when biodegradable materials are chronically damp or wet. If growth is extensive, the consequence can be a structural defect (e.g., fungi degrade the paper fiber surface of wallboard) or a health problem (e.g., allergic respiratory disease).

Several reviews have been published on prevention and control of moisture/fungal problems in buildings (Morey 1996; ACGIH 1999). Fungi will grow on damp/moist biodegradable construction and finishing materials. It is immaterial to the fungus if the building is located in Miami, Atlanta, Hong Kong, Singapore, or Kuala Lumpur.

The primary environmental factor controlling the growth of fungi in buildings is moisture availability. Moisture can enter buildings from sources such as rainwater or pipe/sprinkler leaks. Moisture can also occur in building materials from less obvious sources involving water vapor migration and infiltration of humid outdoor air into the building envelope.

Wind driven rain can enter the building envelope and saturate construction materials especially when roof and window flashing fails. Water that enters the building envelope should be removed by drainage to the outside or by collection of water vapor by the air-conditioning dehumidification cooling coil. Construction defects in building envelopes where water drainage to the outside is blocked by mortar and other construction debris is common. Because of this defect, rainwater that enters the envelope chronically drains into the occupied space. This results in wetting of the paper fiber gypsum board and flooring materials with subsequent fungal growth.

In warm humid climates condensation occurs on walls, ceilings, and floors when their surface temperatures are cooled (by air-conditioning) below the dew point temperature of the surrounding air. If warm moist outdoor air infiltrates through the envelope wall (in a negatively pressurized building) condensation or dampness occurs on cool surfaces (e.g., wall paper, paper fiber gypsum board). Fungi then colonize these surfaces.

The following principles are useful in preventing moisture and fungal growth problems in modern air-conditioned buildings in warm humid climates:

If vapor diffusion and air retarders are used, install them near the exterior surface of the envelope.

Operate the building so that the indoor air is slightly positive in pressure relative to ambient (outdoor) air.

Dry construction materials that are wet or moist before sealing them into building structural components.

Use permeable wall coverings (permeance greater than 5 perms) on interior surfaces of envelope and interior walls that may be subject to water vapor or moisture incursion. A permeable wall covering allows water molecules in wetted structural components to diffuse through the wall and be removed by the air-conditioning dehumidification cooling coils.

Avoid cooling the interior space below the mean monthly outdoor dew point temperature. This reduces the likelihood of condensation on interior surfaces.

Substitute biodeterioration-resistant materials for those susceptible to fungal growth. For example, substitute concrete board for paper fiber gypsum board in walls that are likely to be chronically wet or damp.

Finally, if you invest in buildings (for example, your residence) inspect all structural components for water damage and visible fungal growth (see references) prior to making that investment. Purchasing a chronically wet or damp building is likely to be a poor investment.

Copyright © 2001 Aerias, LLC All rights reserved. Reprinted with permission.

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New Millennium dehumidifiers including low temp.

Editors note: You asked us to find a value priced dehumidifier which would work in low temperatures in basements. Gary has been testing these in a very damp basement at his home and has reported back that it is working well, capturing lots of moisture.

We have just added an exciting new line of dehumidifiers at Allergy Buyers Club called the Millennium series. There are two series - one is the low-temp basement dehumidifier, and the other features three standard-temperature home models .

The brand new Millennium Low-Temp Basement Dehumidifier prevents ice-up down to 50 degrees F and comes with a programmable humidistat and temperature display. This humidistat allows you to set your desired humidity level in 5% increments. The fan and compressor will cycle on or off, depending on how you've set the relative humidity. This is a feature we have not seen in any other residential dehumidifier and we think it sets it apart from all the rest.

The 40-pint low-temp dehumidifier model received a four-and-a-half star (or very-good-plus) rating from our consumer testers and is ideal for damp, cool basements to prevent water damage and eliminate mold & mildew growth. There are also three drainage options for convenience.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/wo-de-millennium-low-temp.html

The standard-temperature home models are available in 25, 40, and 50-pint sizes, the Millennium dehumidifiers feature a washable air filter, Frostguard and overflow protection, castors for easy moving, and a stylish white design that fits any decor in the home or office. These units do not feature a programmable humidistat and operate down to a temperature of 65 degrees F. These three models are value priced starting at $229.00 and cover areas up to 3,000 square feet.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/wo-de-millennium-25-40-55-pint.html

For more ideas on preventing and eliminating mold in your home, be sure to visit our new Mold Center for useful advice on mold allergies.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/mold-center.html

And to review our complete selection of dehumidifiers, be sure to see our Dehumidifier Comparison Chart.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-dehumidifiers.html

http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/dehumidifiers-home-industrial.html for our selection of dehumidifiers

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Article: Cleaning mildew from mattresses, rugs and upholstery.

Editor's note: We would add to the author's list of excellent recommendations (below) for getting rid of mold, that you should consider using vapor steam cleaning to kill mold spores and get rid of odors.

First, remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered articles, mattresses, rugs, and carpets by brushing with a broom. Do this outdoors, if possible, to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house. Wash your broom before re-using it.

Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to draw out more of the mold. Remember that the mold spores are being drawn into the bag of the vacuum cleaner. If the vacuum has a disposable bag, remove and dispose of it immediately. If not, empty the bag carefully (preferably outdoors) to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.

Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article - use an electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the article to stop mold growth.

If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge lightly with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean damp cloth. In doing this, get as little water on the fabric as possible so the filling does not get wet.

Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry the article thoroughly.

Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo. Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened with clear water. Dry in the sun if possible.

Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of mildew. Respray frequently, especially in localities where mildew is a major problem.
If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a reliable disinfecting and fumigating service. Such services are often listed under "Exterminating and Fumigating" or "Pest Control" services in the yellow pages of the telephone directory.

This article was written by Anne Field, Extension Specialist, Emeritus, with reference from the USDA bulletin, Mildew.

Reprinted with permission. Michigan State University Extension.

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NEW! Problem Solution Guides: Dust mites; Mold.

You often ask us on the phone or by email to help you narrow down your choices in solving a particular problem. Clearly, that is very difficult sometimes as we have a wide range of excellent choices. So what we have done,is prioritize for you the different steps you should take, and some of our most popular product choices for each step. The fact that a product is not on this list does not mean it is ineffective, merely we are trying to be succinct for those of you who want from us a quick guide and shopping list.

The first PROBLEM SOLUTION GUIDE is Dust Mites.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/solution-dust-mite.html

The Second is MOLD
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/solution-mold.html

I would also invite you to explore our Learning Center for more advice on these problems.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/learning-center.html

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Customer review of IQAir Purifiers.

EMAIL FROM AN IQAIR PURIFIER OWNER GIVING AN ASSESSMENT OF HER MACHINE (UNEDITED)

When my first IQAIR arrived, my husband, who is an engineer, set it up. He remarked how well designed the machine was. He asked if the noise of the fan would disturb me and I said to turn it on and I would see. He said "It IS on!" It was on the lowest setting but I couldn't tell it was on at all, it was so quiet.

I have used my IQAIR in a meeting room to reduce perfume and other chemical pollutants. It helps me to be able to attend my two weekly meetings that would otherwise be off limits to me. I set it at level 6 for 20 minutes and then to level 4 for the duration of the meeting so the fan does not disturb others. Others with chemical sensitivities who attend at different times have used my machine as well. It provides relief for them also.

My son uses the second IQAIR we purchased with excellent results as well. He uses it at night to ensure a good night's sleep in a cleaner environment.

The only minus I would mention, is that after the gas filter absorbs the odors, the scent seems to be released in to the air as the filter is running. I brought the filter home to use but the scent from the meeting place was clearly evident. Perhaps no chemicals re-enter the air, but it would be wonderful if they could find a way to eliminate that problem.

Thanks for your attention.
Lauren W.

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New Products Round Up

A. A low cost air purifier by Hamilton Beach with ultra violet. While in theory this air purifier at high speed cleans up to 350 square feet, in reality you only want to use it on low, so I recommend it for smaller rooms. A detailed review will be coming up in an upcoming newsletter. Priced at $249.95.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/hb-ap-hamiltonbeach-air-purifiers.html

B. Air screen is a lower cost furnace filter than our Guardian Filter. It is very good with a lifetime warranty. Excellent value for money at $139.95
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/as-ap-airscreen-furnace-filters.html

C. I have been trying out the Hamilton Beach humidifier at home. The full review of the product you can find on the product page. My bottom line on this one? As with all humidifiers none of them is perfect, but this is a great deal better than most. It is nice and quiet, and the thing I like about it most is there is not chance of over-humidifying your room because you can set it to exactly the required humidity (about 35 to 40%). I was most surprised to find that 3 gallons of water lasted nearly a week which told me that most other humidifiers I had tried were overdoing it. The drawbacks? It needs cleaning on a weekly basis, as do most humidifiers. The process is simple but every little chore is extra time in my book that I do not have. It also does not have an alert light to tell you when it needs refilling. Other than those gripes, it is my current favorite. $84.95 for 2.5 gallons.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/hb-hu-hamiltonbeach-humidifiers.html

D. While I have been testing out the Hamilton Beach humidifiers, others on my staff have been testing out the Bemis 2-in-1. It is a combo humidifier and air purifier with a HEPA filter, which can be used on its own in the summertime. While the air purifier capacity is small (think baby bedroom size), nevertheless, it is nice and quiet and our mother-to-be on staff loves it. This combo to my mind is a real little bargain at $119.00. While I usually turn my nose up at multi purpose appliances, this one is a winner at the price. Warning. Do NOT expect it to do the air filtration job of a bigger machine.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/bemis-2in1-humidifiers.html

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"Indoor Air Facts No. 8: Use and Care of Home Humidifiers"

Office of Air and Radiation
Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (6609J)
Office of Research and Development (MD-56)
February, 1991

Introduction

Humidifiers are commonly used in homes to relieve the physical discomforts of dry nose, throat, lips, and skin. The moisture they add to dry air also helps alleviate common nuisances brought on by winter heating, such as static electricity, peeling wallpaper, and cracks in paint and furniture. However, excess moisture can encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. These organisms include dust mites, which are microscopic animals that produce materials causing allergic reactions to household dust, and molds.

Recent studies by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) have shown that ultrasonic and impeller (or "cool mist") humidifiers can disperse materials, such as microorganisms and minerals, from their water tanks into indoor air. At present, only limited information is available on the growth of microorganisms and the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers.

Proper care and cleaning of ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers are important for reducing potential exposures to microorganisms, such as bacteria and molds. Microorganisms often grow in humidifiers which are equipped with tanks containing standing water. Breathing mist containing these pollutants has been implicated as causing a certain type of inflammation of the lungs.

The Federal government has not concluded that the dispersal of minerals by home humidifiers poses a serious health risk. Nevertheless, using water with lower mineral content will reduce exposures to these materials.

The young, the elderly, and those people with lung diseases or respiratory allergies may be particularly susceptible to certain types of airborne pollutants. However, if you follow the recommendations for the use and care of home humidifiers provided in this fact sheet, the potential for dispersal of microorganisms and minerals from your humidifier should be reduced.

Can I Use Tap Water in My Ultrasonic or Impeller Humidifier?

The Federal government has not concluded that using tap water in ultrasonic or impeller humidifiers poses a serious health risk. However, researchers have documented that these humidifiers are very efficient at dispersing minerals in tap water into the air. In addition, some consumers are bothered by a "white dust" that may appear on surfaces during use of these devices. Most importantly, minerals in tap water may increase the development of crusty deposits, or scale, in humidifiers. Scale can be a breeding ground for microorganisms.

Retarding the growth of scale is the most compelling reason to find alternatives to tap water. For this reason, or if white dust is a problem or you wish to minimize your exposure to minerals in the tap water as a matter of prudence, you should either:
1. Use bottled water labeled "distilled." While distilled water still contains some mineral content, it will likely contain lower mineral content than most tap water. Distillation is the most effective method for removing minerals from water.

2. Two additional demineralization processes, deionization and reverse osmosis, remove most of the minerals from water, but are generally less effective than distillation. Water demineralized by these two processes would, on the average, be expected to contain a higher mineral content than distilled waters. "Purified" water may be produced by any of these three or other similar processes.

3. Be aware, however, that not all bottled water is produced using demineralization processes. Bottled waters labeled "spring", "artesian" or "mineral" have not been treated to remove mineral content.

4. Consider using demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters if supplied or recommended for use with your humidifier.

5. Be aware, however, that the ability of these devices to remove minerals may vary widely. Further research is needed to determine how well, and how long, these devices work. Watch for the appearance of "white dust," which would indicate that minerals are not being removed.

6. Also, in areas of the country where the mineral content in the tap water is high, using distilled water may be less expensive than cartridges, cassettes, or filters.

Types of Humidifiers and Associated Pollutants

Console humidifiers are encased in cabinets which are designed for floor use. Portable humidifiers are smaller and more readily moved. Central humidifiers are built into heating and air-conditioning systems, and humidify the whole house.
The two types of humidifiers which generally appear to produce the greatest dispersions of both microorganisms and minerals are:

• Ultrasonic, which create a cool mist by means of ultrasonic sound vibrations.
• Impeller, or "cool mist," which produce a cool mist by means of a high speed rotating disk.

Two additional types of humidifiers can allow for growth of micro-organisms if they are equipped with a tank that holds standing water, but generally disperse less, if any, of these pollutants into the air. These are:

• Evaporative, which transmit moisture into the air invisibly by using a fan to blow air through a moistened absorbent material, such as a belt, wick, or filter.
• Steam vaporizer, which create steam by heating water with an electrical heating element or electrodes. "Warm mist" humidifiers are a type of steam vaporizer humidifier in which the steam is cooled before exiting the machine.

Recommendations for Use and Care

It is important to use a humidifier only when conditions require it, to use the correct moisture setting for existing conditions, and to clean it thoroughly.

The possible health effects resulting from the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers are not fully understood. Meanwhile, it may be prudent to reduce the potential for personal exposures to these materials by taking the following precautions, particularly when using ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers.

• Empty the tank, wipe all surfaces dry, and refill the water in portable humidifiers daily to reduce any growth of microorganisms; follow the manufacturer's instructions for changing water in console humidifiers. Be sure you unplug the unit from the electrical socket first.
• Use water with low mineral content to prevent the build-up of scale and the dispersal of minerals into the air. See the box on the left for information on using water with low mineral content.
• Clean portable humidifiers every third day. Empty the tank and use a brush or other scrubber to clean it. Remove any scale, deposits, or film that has formed on the sides of the tank or on interior surfaces, and wipe all surfaces dry. Again, be sure you unplug the unit.
• Follow the manufacturer's suggestions on the use of cleaning products or disinfectants. In the absence of specific recommendations, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide. If you use any cleaning or disinfecting agent, rinse the tank thoroughly with several changes of tap water to prevent dispersal of chemicals into the air during use.
• Follow the manufacturer's directions on cleaning and maintaining console and central (furnace mounted) humidifiers. In particular, if the humidifier contains a tank, do not allow water to stand in the tank for extended periods of time, and keep the water clean.
• Keep steam vaporizer humidifiers out of the reach of children. Steam and boiling water may cause burns.
• Do not humidify to indoor relative humidity levels exceeding 50 percent. Higher humidity levels may encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. Hygrometers, available at local hardware stores, may be used to measure humidity levels. Some humidifiers contain a built-in humidistat which may be adjusted to the proper moisture level. If water condenses on windows, walls, or pictures, either relocate the humidifier, lower its humidistat setting, or reduce its use.
• Do not permit the area around the humidifier to become damp or wet. If dampness occurs, turn the output volume of the humidifier down. If the humidifier output volume cannot be turned down, use the, humidifier intermittently. Do not allow absorbent materials, such as carpeting, drapes, or table cloths, to become damp.
• Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the use, maintenance, and replacement of any materials supplied with the humidifier. Use appropriate materials as recommended by the product manufacturer.
• Clean the humidifier, as directed, at the end of the humidifying season or when the product will not be in frequent use. Before storage, make sure all the parts are dry. Dispose of all used demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters. Store the unit in a dry location. After storage, clean the unit again and remove any dust on the outside.

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Email rave about Formula 212 spot cleaner from customer.

From: Gerald M.
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 11:11 AM

"Formula 212 has to be the best thing ever found, I can't believe what a great job it did in cleaning my carpets and killing pet odors. I will never use anything else again. This stuff should be marketed and put in retail stores"

Find the Formula 212 cleaner as an accessory at the bottom of the steam cleaner pages $35.95.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/ladvapsteamc.html

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NEW! All models comparison charts for IQAir and Clarifier air purifiers.

We sell a number of different models from the IQAIR and Clarifier line. We do this because we think their product lines are of top notch quality. If you are having trouble figuring out which model would be best for you, we have put them into one handy model comparison charts. See links below.

IQAIR
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/ap-iqair-comparison.html
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/iqairgcseries.html

Clarifier
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-care2000-air-purifiers.html

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Article: Care and Storage of your Pillow.

Article contributed by Pacific Coast Feather

Cover
Pillows should be covered with a pillow protector in addition to a decorative pillowcase. These protectors, often with a zipper closure, provide you an additional layer between the pillow and a pillowcase.

Washing
Follow the washing instructions found on the packaging of your pillow. Pillows that can be machine washed should be washed following these steps:

• Wash with a mild detergent on a gentle setting.
• After the wash cycle is complete, rinse the pillow(s) 2 additional times (to rid the pillow of any soap that may still be in the pillow. Then spin the pillow(s) two additional times (to rid the pillow(s) of excess water.) Dry the pillow(s) completely on a low heat setting. For construction pillows, you may need to dry the pillow(s) for four to six hours. Between cycles, remove the pillow and hand fluff. Note that pillows may still be damp inside even when they feel dry to the touch. Any lumps or clumps of fill, indicates dampness - dry until you are sure the pillow(s) is dry!

Storage
When pillows are not in use, store them in a breathable bag. Storing pillows in a plastic bag will trap moisture in with the pillow, causing the pillow to mildew or the fill to decompose.

Editor's note: Please note that these are information tips only. For best results, and to maintain your product warranty, we recommend that you refer to the manufacturer's care instructions that come with the product. See the link below for more information about the allergy free pillows that we offer at Allergy Buyers Club.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/pillows.html

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Care and Storage of your Comforter

Article contributed by Pacific Coast Feather.

Pacific Coast comforters are easy to care for and are designed to last night after night and year after year.

Here are some tips on caring for and maintaining your product and ensuring your product lasts for many years:

• Use a Duvet Cover
  If used with a duvet cover, your comforter will only need to be cleaned every three to five years. Also, with a duvet cover, you won't need a top sheet, blanket, or bedspread. Making your bed will be a flip and a fluff!
• Professionally launder your comforter every three to five years
  Down actually washes well, but due to the size of comforters we highly recommend leaving the cleaning to a professional.
• Fluff your comforter when you make your bed
  By providing a steady flow of air, your down will continue to loft.
• Store your comforter in a breathable bag
  Avoid storing comforters in plastic bags, which may trap in moisture and cause the fill to mildew or disintegrate.
• Redistribute your comforter as needed
  To redistribute the fill of your comforter, lay your comforter on a flat surface and simply push the down in place with the heel of your hand and forearm. We use a Whiffle Ball bat in our plants!

Editor's note: Please note that these are information tips only. For best results, and to maintain your product warranty, we recommend that you refer to the manufacturer's care instructions that come with the product. See the link below for more information about the allergy free comforters that we offer at Allergy Buyers Club.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/comforters.html

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Washing Instructions for your Comforter.

Article contributed by Pacific Coast Feather

We hope that these simple guidelines help you to protect your investment and instruct you how to care for your comforter.

• We recommend that you professionally launder your bedding every 3-5 years. It is possible to wash your bedding yourself, but you may jeopardize the life of your comforter.
• We are reluctant to recommend non-professional laundering because:
  1. Home washers are often too small.
  2. Most household washing machines have an agitator in the center which places unnecessary stress on the comforter.
  3. Harsh detergents and heat can cause down to become dry and brittle and will result in the down clusters breaking.
  4. If the product is not dried completely the fill may mildew or disintegrate.
  5. Most fabric used in natural bedding is 100% cotton and will shrink slightly when dried.
• Should you still choose to wash your comforter yourself, please:
  1. Use gentle detergents and a low heat drying cycle.
  2. Be sure to dry the product completely for approximately 8-12 hours.

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